Mabille & Suprematist Art

Runway Show: Spring 2010 Couture
Designer: Alexis Mabille
Influence: Suprematist art and Alexander Calder


While other designers played with the mixing of floral and tribal prints this season, Alexis Mabille tried something DIFFERENT. Only thirty years old, Alexis Mabille is a newbie to the fashion world. Mabille refers to his couture line as “graphic surgery,” stating,

“I wanted something cleaner, with less embroideries.”


Mabille’s collection contains at least a dozen designs inspired by the Suprematist art movement. If you’re unfamiliar with Suprematism, it is a style of art characterized by geometric forms such as circles and squares. The most common paintings associated with this movement were of primitive geometric figures presented in a hodge-podge of colors. This movement was founded by the Russian painter and designer Kazimir Malevich in the early 1900’s.

As a student studying art history, I am impressed with Mabille’s ability to incorporate art into his designs. Everything from the runway model’s parted hair down to her mismatched shoes was spliced by color. This thoughtful collection is the product of a true fashion designer.



In addition to Suprematist art, Mabille was also inspired by Alexander Calder, who is most known for his creative mobiles. As soon as I discovered that Calder was a source of Mabille’s inspiration, I said to myself, “this dress is so reminiscent of Calder.” Containing geometric cutouts, the Mabille’s yellow dress shown above perfectly captures what Calder’s designs are about. Similar to how mobiles are shifted by air, the scattered shapes on the dress appear haphazardly placed.

Remember when I asked you to define fashion? Well, Alexis Mabille’s collection is in essence what fashion is supposed to be. Fashion is art. It is about pushing limits and creating designs so distinguished that viewers are left speechless.

Though some critics condemn Mabille for his outlandish and over-the-top designs, I disagree. When it comes to couture fashion there is no such thing as “less can be more.” While ready-to-wear collections consists of practical clothing, couture fashion is crazy. In fact, I like couture fashion strictly because it’s out there. Designs such as Mabille's are what make fashion amazing. Fashion is not always “pretty,” it is sometimes futuristic and edgy.

If this was a ready-to-wear collection, then I would be worried. Though I may not always understand couture – I like it. Couture fashion ultimately inspires ready-to-wear collections. Like the great artists and architects of our time, fashion designers are always trying new things.

With this in mind, I cannot wait to see what Mabille has planned for his Fall 2010 Couture line.